Emily in Ogi, Sado (Part 2)
Ogi Matsuri with Kodo and Naruwan
*Disclaimer: I am a native English speaker purely speaking about my own experiences. I’m excited that this substack has made international reach, but sometimes I use strange words and phrases. If you are reading this through AI translation, some ideas, words, and nuances may not be correct in your language. Please ask if you have any questions.*
*If you click on the photos directly on the substack website, you can see full photos.
*This is an updated version of the emailed post from October 6th.
So maybe this is a month+ late, but meh! Life moves fast and this memory is still fresh AF as a continuation from this post about Kodo’s Earth Celebration. This post will have a second part to follow because this was too, dang long. Please read it as it’s opinionated and might influence your trip to Sado in the future.
Following the weekend’s massive 3 day Earth Celebration (EC) festival by Kodo, a celebration that attracts people from all over the world, the same town (Ogi) hosts their local matsuri (festival). This 2 day matsuri is held the following weekend. This is not hosted by Kodo, but they are heavily involved as community members and grateful for the town’s support beyond EC. With the advice from friends like former Kodo member Eri Uchida, Diana and Kristen of Naruwan taiko and I stayed for Ogi Matsuri.
History:
OGI MATSURI is believed to have originated when the first magistrate of Sado Island donated rice to Kisaki Shrine to pray for safe voyages at Ogi Port. As Sado was home to the nation’s largest gold mine, the port was used for gold and silver shipping during the time when the mine was flourishing. The Kisaki Jinja (shrine) was founded by Sado’s magistrate in the 17th century, which is where the various paraded performances finish. There are different geinoh (folk arts) groups that walk separate routes throughout the town for purposes like good fortune or making the town’s people’s wishes come true. These include Kojishimai (shishi odori lion/ dragon/ god dances), Onidaiko (demon drums), Onikenbai (demon sword dance), Beta Nagikai Mikoshi (portable shinto shrine), Okesa Minyo (dancing), and of course taiko that occur at the same time. Thank you Yui Kamiya and Kodo colleagues for this information!
According to one of Yui’s colleague, Kodo first took part in Ogi Matsuri in 1987. “In 1988. 11. vol 55 Kodo Kikanshi seasonal magazine, there's a part in the article that I absolutely love, saying ‘The young men of the Chichibu Yatai-bayashi, who just happened to be in Sado for a trip, played and Kodo took a short break to watch the performance,” said Yui Kamiya in conversation. Taiko history!
Day 1 Ogi Matsuri Daiko
On Saturday, the first day of the festival, Diana, Kristen, and I met the Kodo members, apprentices, and staff who had gathered in the morning to construct and decorate their dashi (float) with colorful paper flowers that would be paraded through the town. There were 2 yoko uchi daiko (taiko on its side) on the dashi and a place above the taiko where the chappa (handheld cymbals) players stand. The middle held people carrying the ji (continuous rhythm) as they sat playing atarigane and shime. The dashi was pulled throughout the streets by many Kodo members in colorful koikuchi to casual wear. Four people played Ogi Matsuri Daiko on each side of the 2 taiko that are tied to the dashi. However, it wasn't just current Kodo members and apprentices playing the repeated line, but also Kodo staff, former members’, excited festival goers, visiting taiko teams from mainland Japan, and 3 excited weirdos from America!
The dashi was pulled from house to house, where homes may present ohana (an offering) to the different parading geinoh groups for good harvest and business, to keep the bad spirits away and good luck for the next year. In return, these groups performed with rigorous energy in the spirit of the matsuri. My understanding is that these short performances act as a reciprocal sense of gratitude to the towns’ support following the concept that we rely on each other to live in Ogi. In the case of Ogi Matsuri Daiko, 1-2 lively rounds are performed, but for special reasons, sometimes kiyari may be sung.
We arrived at the final destination, Kisaki Jinja, where a tug of war of the dashi suddenly began, preventing the dashi from moving forward and reaching its final destination. As Yui explained, “Although we want to pull the bad spirits away, we also don’t want the festival to end, so it’s as if we’re tugging our emotions.” It’s a bit crazy and exhausting, but for Diana, Kristen, and myself, we couldn’t help but join. Despite the 90 degree sunny weather, the sentiment was tangible. It was easy to forget about the heat and fatigue because of the high spirits and excitement from the environment.
Finally at the end, we played Ogi Matsuri Daiko in a continuous speed round fashion. I haven’t been told the significance of this, but maybe you can find out if you attend. At the end of the night are fireworks at the Port, which is the main draw for the locals featuring massive summer fireworks.
Day 2 Onikenbai
The Kodo members split up dependant upon which geinoh they wanted to partake in, or even couldn’t participate because of other performances. As we were connected to Ogi through Kodo, we followed the onikenbai group which was composed of mostly current and former Kodo members and apprentices, Onikenbai, or a Buddhist demon sword dance, originates from Iwate prefecture. There are many groups, but they have precious differences and nuances. I’m no expert, so find out more about here!
Yoshikazu led the brigade on his shinobue for almost every round. Similarly to Ogi Matsuri Daiko, they walked through the streets and performed at the homes and establishments that offered ohana and ended at the jinja. For special reasons, sometimes the highest ranked onikenbai will perform a tenacious solo. They danced in 90 something degree weather, almost fully covered from morning til dark, and each time they moved with the same level of spirit and energy, despite the cramps, broken tabi, and crazy heat. Also astonishingly, they continued to try to speak with us in a friendly manner despite the language barrier. Maybe it was a continuation of spiritual energy or maybe, that’s just Kodo.
At the very end of this night, a bon odori was held on the streets until late into the evening, which was run by a different local jinja and its members, where everyone danced and sang Okesa Ondo.
To reiterate, we followed Kodo, but there were many other geinoh parading at the same time in different directions. Kodo is just a participant, it is not their event. Kodo isn’t listed as a performer on the Ogi Matsuri posters, nor is it on the Kodo website. Individually, they are matsuri participants. In fact, some of the apprentices left to join Kojishimai temporarily, and some Kodo members chose to carry the mikoshi. This matsuri was a great reminder that Sado, let alone the town of Ogi, has its own history, traditions, and culture that was there before Kodo that everyone can appreciate.
Oh you wanted the food part? Well, seriously, please just read the next one to come this week, because, that’s it for now!
(P.S., THANK YOU to Diana and Kristen for some of the photos!)
Hey Emily :) It's Steve! Finally made it around to reading one of your posts! This brings back good memories to the 2 times I've attended the festival! Indeed, you get to see a very different side of Kodo and also get to participate in an awesome festival with many folk arts. I learned a few things myself, so thank you for sharing all of this!