Emily in Osaka, Tokyo, and not Paris

Do I even know her. Quick update from the land of sakura ga saku.

Oh hi!

I’m due for making another blognewslettersubstack post. I hosted a visitor and recently got sick. I think it’s the flu, but I chose not to buy a test because I’m treating it the same way regardless. Anyhoobs, thank you to those who have been supporting me and sending messages whether it be on your thoughts from the previous post, or just to say hey. Megan Chao Smith nailed it on the head when she said you become a little more homesick when you’re sick in a foreign country. If something really bad happens, I know I can reach out to Kaoly san and community.

Sakura (cherry blossom) at a nearby temple. Not related to what I’m writing about, just a nice image.

Here are 2 things that have recently happened:

Osaka Sumo Viewing

If anyone wants to see the Grand Sumo while I’m still here, please let me know. Like most things in Japan, there’s a process, and I’d love to help you! This is the process I did below. Skip to the next paragraph if getting tickets aren’t your jam.

1. Wait for advanced ticket sales. Typically about 2-3 weeks prior.

2. As a gaikokujin that has very poor Japanese, I bought tickets online on oosumo (https://sumo.pia.jp/en/)

3. After you complete payment, etc, follow the email instructions and pick up your tickets at a 7eleven in Japan. Picking up sporting and concert tickets at a convenience store (combini) is not unusual here.

4. Read various things online to learn the historical background and different symbolism specifically around Shinto, and learn the rules  which are pretty straightforward. These are helpful:

https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/tv/sumo/qa/

https://fundforeducationabroad.org/journals/sumo-and-shinto/

5. Run to the shinkansen in a frantic state to get to Osaka (not a highlight)

6. Go to the Edion arena to check out the juniors. Buy bento, leave, and return to a full stadium for the high level competitors.

L to R clockwise: Pic 1: closer up view of juniors , Pic 2: blurry bento, Pic 3: behind the scenes of a sumo wrestler watching before entering his match, Pic 4: match towards the end

You can leave the venue and return because the food options are limited or sell out. Every venue is different though, but this seems to be common for Grand Sumo. So once we arrived to Osaka, we threw our luggage in a locker at the Namba train station close by, and went to the venue to check out the junior sumo competitors at around 10:30 am. Since the arena is empty, we could sit in box seats closer to the ring to get a better view, and fortunately, we were able to buy bento boxes there before they sold out (which was highly suggested by some taiko folks), but I believe the box seats closer to the ring get obentos with their ticket which is then hand delivered by a runner. Pretty luxurious, and it’s even more convenient that we could leave and return to watch the high level competitors for the last couple of hours. Everything was over by about 6:00 pm, leaving time to explore nightlife in Osaka. This was beyond ideal especially for our $35 ticket (which wasn’t even the cheapest seat).

In between the matches, the yobibashi (announcer) called the names of the competitors. This was honestly one of my favorite parts because it has intonation changes and a nostalgic melody that is reminiscent of kiyari/ okiyage that is sung before miyake daiko.

My other update is I’ve started helping Ai Watano, staff member of Gocoo and Tawoo performer and teacher, with leading taiko classes at Miyamoto Unosuke as part of a packaged tour for visiting international families.

The majority are unable to speak Japanese, but are fluent in English. Usually, Tawoo workshops are about 2-3 hours, but this one is a mere 1 hour, so we really cram a lot for a brief time. I’ve taken on the role of speaking about Tawoo Dojo, Miyamoto Unosuke, and answering questions.

Something I’d like to work on is explaining how taiko is representative of the heartbeat of Japan, and to be able to explain it from the Tawoo perspective as opposed to just drawing my own conclusions from observations and existence. It’s complex and hard to explain beyond surface level in a 1 hour class. Something I make sure to mention is that taiko is everywhere. It’s in sumo (gasp), played over the loudspeakers in Ameyokocho (busy market street in Ueno), and well, just look at the rest of this substack. Regardless, it’s a wonderful opportunity and another valuable learning experience. 

Anyhoobs, this is not my most eloquent or typical post, but I really wanted to share something. I’m now halfway through my visa, and I’m trying to make time to reflect. Lately, I've been asking myself what I want taiko to look like in my life. Actually, I think I’ve been asking this question since high school which is why I’m in Tokyo. I am still working towards an answer, and would love to hear from you. Perhaps for the people that don’t play taiko, so instead you can ask this relating to any intense hobby or passion you have. Maybe you can inspire me 🙂

Will write again real soon. It’s cherry blossom season and Gocoo/ Tawoo performed in Hibiya Park for the Tohoku earthquake memorial (3/11). Much to talk about, but for now, I’m going back to bed. Goodnight!